While the usual discussion in these pages is about start-ups, and how Israel is an incredible breeding ground for tech entrepreneurship, we have also gone back to our roots.
I was first introduced to Castel Winery by my good friend Elie Wurtman, and we actually entertained the thought of opening a winery ourselves. Probably good that we stopped at the drawing board with that one, but Eli Ben Zaken and his peers have blazed a new trail for Israeli wine. Yet another example of the "new Israel," as a center of creativity and a global sense of the aesthetic.
Take a look at this story from this past weekend's Wall Street Journal (thanks to Jules Polonetsky for pointing it out):
Israel's New Revolution in Quality
By WILLIAM ECHIKSON
SPECIAL TO THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
February 22, 2008
It started as a hobby. Eli-Gilbert Ben-Zaken, an
Israeli restaurateur and poultry farmer, planted a few grape vines on a
hilltop next to his house in the Judean hills in 1988. He chose the
name Domaine du Castel after a nearby crusader fortress and, starting
with a mere 600 bottles, attempted to make high-quality,
French-inspired wines.
In the beginning, Mr. Ben-Zaken's quest looked
quixotic. Wine was produced in ancient times in Israel --
archaeologists have found antique wine presses in the Galilee and
Judean Hills -- and the Rothschild banking family reintroduced grape
cultivation at the end of the 19th century. But for most of the
country's history, the Israeli industry was dominated by sweet wines of
poor quality that taste like alcohol-tainted grape juice -- tired red
wines with cooked, herbaceous flavors.
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Israeli winemaker Eli-Gilbert Ben-Zaken in his cellar |
Today, Mr. Ben-Zaken and a small group of other
Israeli pioneers are creating world-class reds and whites that are
gaining increasing recognition from critics both at home and abroad.
Ever more-prosperous Israelis are demanding better drinking choices,
while connoisseurs in the U.S. and Europe in search of something
different are intrigued enough to taste these "new" world wines from an
ancient land.
"We were real pioneers -- the Israeli market used to
be a prisoner market for poor-quality kosher wine," Mr. Ben-Zaken, 63
years old, recalls. "It's different these days. Everybody is trying to
make something good."
Traditionally, Jews drank mostly for Shabbat blessing
and this wine was made sweet because a bottle had to last for several
days and still be drinkable. In modern Israel, winemakers had a captive
market that demanded kosher wines and little in terms of quality.
Israelis traditionally put little emphasis on gastronomy.
The country's economic boom over the past two decades
has changed that, creating more of a market for the finer things in
life. Israel's reduction of travel taxes prompted a wave of visits to
Europe and exposure to good food and good wine. Import taxes were
lowered and many of the world's most famous international wines finally
began to become available in the country. Annual per capita consumption
of wine has doubled in the past two decades to about seven liters.
A new generation of wineries and winemakers has
emerged to satisfy Israelis' new appreciation for quality wines. Before
1980, Israel counted only about 20 wineries. One company -- Carmel --
dominated the industry, vinifying about 70% of the country's total
grape harvest. Today, more than 200 smaller wineries are spread across
the country, from the Golan Heights in the far north to the Negev
Desert in the far south. Sweet wines now represent a minority of the
market.
In Europe, supermarkets still tend to stock the
mainstream Israeli brands. But increasingly specialty wine stores or
Jewish stores are carrying a wider selection of highly rated Israeli
wines. (For details on some stores in Europe and tasting notes on some
wines, see accompanying article.)
In addition to Castel, some of the best names to look
for include Margalit, Tzora, Chateau Golan and Clos de Gat. Even
Israel's largest and oldest wineries, led by Carmel, have invested in
new production of high-quality, European-style wines. Carmel has
launched the well-respected wineries Ramat Daltan, Zichron and Yatir.
Mr. Ben-Zaken's Domaine du Castel was the first winery
to plant vines in the Judean hills, in the center of the country. Now,
more than 30 wineries flourish there. The Judean's Mediterranean-style
hillsides -- where olive groves also flourish -- benefit from
relatively cool summers, which make them suited to quality winemaking.
For his wines, Mr. Ben-Zaken has given the hills a French name:
Haute-Judée.
Domaine du Castel regularly ranks among the best
Israeli wines in international tastings. Its wines are exported to the
U.K., Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg, France, Switzerland, Italy,
Japan, the U.S., Canada and Mexico. Bottles sell for €30 or more. Mr.
Ben-Zaken often shows off his wines in St. Emilion during the Bordeaux
region's annual primeur tastings, and he recently traveled to Brussels.
"Castel is the king of Israeli boutique wineries,"
says Philippe Weinberger, an Antwerp-based importer and wine-shop owner
who sells a wide range of top-ranked kosher wines. "He was the first
one to do this and he pushed the big guys -- the big companies such as
Carmel -- into making better wine." At his Antwerp shop, Mr. Weinberger
says, he sells top-flight Israeli wines to Jews "who want to taste
great kosher wine" and non-Jews "who just want to try something new."
The diminutive, bearded Mr. Ben-Zaken grew up in
Alexandria, Egypt, having no experience with wine. In the 1960s his
family moved to Italy, where he acquired a taste for fine food and
wine. Both he and his wife Monique, also from Egypt, attended the
University of Geneva, which nurtured his Francophile tendencies.
In 1970, the Ben-Zakens settled in Israel, on a small
farm with a chicken coop about 17 kilometers from Jerusalem, where Mr.
Ben-Zaken opened a restaurant called Mamma Mia. "It was the first
restaurant serving fresh pasta in Israel," he says. The restaurant
required a wine list. He began to taste seriously, traveling often to
French and Italian wine regions, and was inspired to plant his initial
vines.
During a 1985 trip to Burgundy, Mr. Ben-Zaken was
staying in Puligny-Montrachet and asked for a bottle of the local wine
at the hotel's restaurant, not knowing the village was home to one of
the world's most famous Chardonnays. When the wine was served, it
proved a revelation -- "the first time I tasted a white wine aged in
oak that was not just fruity but had much more complex flavors."
For his own wine, Mr. Ben-Zaken has adopted a similar
French style. His reds blend the five Bordeaux grape varietals led by
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. His whites are 100% Chardonnays and are
crafted to resemble Burgundies. One of his two sons, Ariel, joined the
winery after studying oenology in Burgundy. His son-in-law also works
at the winery. All Domaine du Castel wines are aged in French oak
barrels.
The winery now has 15 hectares under cultivation and
produces about 200,000 bottles each year. Mr. Ben-Zaken has stopped
raising poultry and turned the old chicken coop into a modern cellar
and winemaking facility. When in 2002 the intifada put his Mamma Mia
restaurant on the front lines of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict,
forcing him to hire security guards and chasing away many of his
customers, he closed it and concentrated full-time on making wine.
Mr. Ben-Zaken is a secular Jew, and at first, he
didn't make kosher wines. But many of Domaine du Castel's customers
began asking for wines that respect Jewish dietary laws, so Mr.
Ben-Zaken changed his production process to get rabbinic approval.
Although much debate continues to swirl about what makes a wine kosher,
most insist on rabbis or their assistants supervising the wine's
production and prohibit the use of animal byproducts such as gelatin,
which is used to clarify wine.
The domaine's wines are intriguing -- impressive but
not always successful. At a recent tasting in Brussels, the 2005
Chardonnay, which costs €39 a bottle, seemed crisp and cool, with a
nice buttery finish. But one of the tasting participants, Brussels
wine-seller Paul van Dievoet, said too much oak masked the fruit's full
flavors. "It's hard to justify such a high price," he said.
The reds received similarly mixed reviews in Brussels.
Both the 2005 Petit Castel at €32 a bottle and the 2004 Grand Castel,
at €54, are clean, impressive wines, with full flavors -- from floral
violets to fruity cherries -- with licorice, clove and other spices in
the finish. "These are more Bordeaux than real Bordeaux," said a
surprised Mr. van Dievoet. Despite the high quality, he remained
dissuaded by their high cost.
None of the criticism matters much to Mr. Ben-Zaken.
His wines' high prices reflect the low output and strong demand for top
Israeli wines. Most of his vintages are sold out and he has begun
mimicking Bordeaux growers in selling them en primeur -- before
bottling, while still aging in barrels.
Accolades continue to pour in. Wine author and expert
Hugh Johnson awarded the domaine his highest four star rating and named
the red Castel Grand Vin one of his 200 favorite wines in his 2008
pocket wine book. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate magazine gave the
domaine many of the best notes in its December, 2007, Israeli tasting.
Mr. Parker grades on a 100 point scale, with anything over 90
considered superb. The red 2005 Grand Castel received a 92, the Petit
Castel received 90 points, and white 2005 "C Blanc du Castel" won 91
points, with the Advocate reporting "generally good balance, some
brightness, some depth, and a respectable finish that lingers and has
some intensity."
When German Chancellor Angela Merkel visited Israel
last year, Prime Minister Ehud Olmert served her Castel. She liked it
-- and placed an order for several cases that are now being delivered
to Berlin.